So lately I have been seeing posts in Facebook groups of new folks trying to use layer heights that are too large, and some other common issues. There seems to be some misinformation floating around about these things and I would like to take this opportunity to hopefully clear them up
Knowing what size nozzle your printer has is very important. It is the nozzle diameter that several slicing settings are based on. Most 3D printers on the market today are using a 0.4mm nozzle size - it is a nice compromise between flow and detail. There may be a few out there that use slightly larger, or smaller diameters, so make sure you know what you have. Or, you may have an aftermarket hotend installed with a different nozzle diameter - again, knowing what you are using is a big factor in getting good prints. So, what are the settings that are affected by nozzle diameter?
For those that are interested, there is some great info posted over at soliforum.com about the math that slicing programs use (the write-up is based on Slic3r, but other slicing programs will have similar calculations): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9551/soliprint-v11/page/2/ (look for the post by jagowilson about 1/3rd of the way down the page). Setting bed level is also critical to getting good prints. I see a lot of people wanting information about "auto-leveling" setups - which is the best one? The answer to that question is: The best "auto-leveling" system is the one that isn't needed. If you take the time to properly set up your printer (ie. calibration, calibration, calibration) then you should not have any need of "auto-leveling". Taking the time to do things right early on will save time in the long run. I rarely need to touch bed level on my favorite printer, even if I get a little impatient and pull parts off while the bed is still warm (very often seconds after they complete) the bed stays where it is set and I can turn the heater back on, load a new model, slice and print again within moments. Running an auto-level script for every print adds several minutes to print time, and frequently is not very accurate. In fact, I did away with the auto-leveling inductive sensor that came with my kossel kit. It was problematic from the start, and after adding the mirror tile (my typical print surface) to the bed surface, it became completely useless since it requires close proximity to metal to operate. Calibration of the effector is the critical component on a delta/kossel printer. Yes, it takes time and a lot of patience to do it right, but it is worth every second once it is dialed in correctly.
Love your calibration posts, I had figured out about 95% of it before you started your series but it was from various scattered sources. Love seeing it all in one place easy to reference!
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AuthorA "Jack of all trades, master of none", I have dabbled in a lot of different things, but none have held my interest like these darn 3d printers do. Archives
May 2016
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